Every sample pulled from what seemed like each barrel belonged on an all star team.

Despite the challenges Jonata winemaker Matt Dees and his talented staff faced during what can kindly be described as a challenging growing season in 2022, the wine pulled for blending trials was never better.

It left Dees and the team feeling fulfilled. They’d pulled off what he said was “an extended conversation with Mother Nature,” but then they had to stare down a different problem; an over abundance of good stuff.

“It was a big vintage in terms of barrel tasting,” Dees said. “There were no dogs. Everything was pretty special. That’s both a blessing and a curse during blending because there were so many objects in motion.”

The result comes in the form of excellence in Jonata “Todos” 2022 ($50).

Bursting from the glass are a varied collection of aromas: blackberry, plum, dried violets, cocoa powder, fig and singed rosemary. While the wine is fuller bodied it’s still juicy yet loaded with ripe fruit flavors and well-integrated tannins. Dark fruits, fig, white pepper and even wild game flavors emerge in a seamless fashion.

An underlying acidity tied a bow on the entire experience as Dees somehow manages to marry a wine that is 70% Syrah, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 2% “chaos.”

It’s that “chaos” - the proverbial kitchen sink - that offers a chef’s kiss. They overcame the weather and made the most distinct, delicious and diversely exciting red blend released in 2025.

“I’d say 2022 was a really interesting learning experience for us,” Dees said. “Honestly, I think it’s some of the best Jonata wine I’ve seen to date. It was a colder vintage and it made me realize how important a long hang time is. We had rain events, had to wait and really let things get to true phenological ripeness. I was kind of blown away.”

Because such vintages aren’t common in California, to leap into action and face a weather gauntlet yet still produce a wine like Todos is remarkable.

“There’s that Robert Frost line, ‘Two roads diverged in the woods,’” Dees said. “That’s what every vintage feels like. You’re always asking, is it heat or rain? Do we pick before or after? Do we panic? Is the sky falling? It rarely does in California, but there are a lot of fun questions to wrestle with. You can’t bat 1.000. Every year. It’s hard enough to bat .350., but I think we did.”

To ride along with the baseball analogy, string together a few seasons with just a .300 batting average - let alone .350 these days - and you’re headed to the Hall of Fame. That’s right where the Jonata “Todos” 2022 belongs.