Matt Dees had a white Christmas and it will have nothing to do with snow.

Rather, it had everything to do with what was in his wine glass.

The uber talented and affable wine maker at The Hilt and Jonata is always on the hunt for white wines brimming with “electricity.”

“Freshness, vibrance and electricity are what I am looking for,” Dees said. “I want something that kind of just makes my taste buds sizzle; makes the hair on the back of my neck stick up a little. I don’t want crazy acidity, I want a dollop of fruit on a wine that is texturally fascinating but also full of pleasure.”

Year-after-year, those are the kind of white wines Dees makes at The Hilt. Its chardonnay is always one of the best in the world. A mixture of soil, climate and the deft touch of a winemaker and staff in touch with the property has allowed it to always tell a fascinating story. It’s a pursuit of white wines that balance freshness and weight, that zip across the palate but land with texture and structure.

There’s a tension between energy and substance where nuance lies, that’s what Dees is an expert at capturing and searching for when he pops a cork. It could be a touch of bitterness in Riesling, waxiness in Chenin Blanc or chalky phenolics that are dynamic features, not flaws.

And yes, Dees can find structure in white wines. Whether that’s building texture through aging on the lees or barrel selection that dials in the forest and toast levels, Dees is in search of subtly framing the wine’s profile. At The Hilt, its vineyards: Radian and Bentrock offer space for Chardonnay to spread its wings. From the windswept, forlorn, frigid Radian where its rocky soils are a haven for a sprained ankle with every step to the gentle rolling hills of a sunsplashed Bentrock where deeper soils allow vines to thrive in a more temperate space, Dees has a diverse palate from which to paint his white wine masterpieces.

“I live in Santa Barbara County, it’s 70 degrees, I’m not digging into a hearty red with the prime rib this Christmas,” said Dees with a laugh. “I drink white wine three-to-one over red.”

While The Hilt is always a great choice for your Christmas or New Year’s meals, the following tasting notes offer a wide selection of white wines for the holiday season.

Beringer Napa Valley Private Reserve Chardonnay 2022 ($50): Expressive citrus aromatics of zesty lemon, lemon curd, and lemon blossom dominate the nose, offering a vibrant and lifted first impression.

Bouchaine Carneros Estate Chardonnay 2023 ($40): Bright Meyer lemon and lemon curd lead the nose. The mid-palate shows excellent weight and texture, with rich Anjou pear flavors. A subtle mineral note carries through the finish. Restrained oak allows the fruit to shine, adding complexity without overshadowing freshness.

Bouchaine Unoaked Chardonnay 2023 ($40): A pure, transparent expression of Bouchaine’s old-vine Chardonnay, this unoaked bottling emphasizes energy, precision and texture. Fermented in concrete eggs and stainless steel, the wine opens with aromas of fresh pear, green apple and citrus blossom. On the palate, vibrant acidity drives flavors of lemon zest, white peach and subtle mineral tones, framed by a supple yet taut mouthfeel.

Bouchaine Reserve Chardonnay 2023 ($70): The most opulent expression of Bouchaine’s estate fruit, drawn from a meticulous barrel selection. Rich yet poised, it offers aromas of ripe stone fruit, baked apple, lemon curd and hints of vanilla and hazelnut. The palate is full-bodied and concentrated, with a plush texture shaped by partial malolactic fermentation and extended sur lie aging in French oak, about one-third new. Despite its depth and generosity, bright natural acidity provides lift and balance, finishing long and polished with both power and elegance.

Clif Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($38): A nose kissed by California sun offers orange blossom, red Bartlett pear and honeysuckle segues into a flavor profile with striking pink grapefruit, pear and the herbal notes of lemon thyme.

Frank Family Carneros Chardonnay 2023 ($40): Tropical and citrus notes emerge on the nose. The palate is a harmonious blend of tropical fruit, stone fruit, and citrus, with lively energy and excellent balance between all three elements.

Grgich Hills Napa Valley Chardonnay 2022 ($53): Aromas of toasted almond and marzipan open the wine. The palate is creamy and well-rounded, with a smooth, polished mouthfeel and balanced oak integration.