Laurent Gruet may be the single most important figure in American sparkling wine.

He built a legacy in an unexpected place: New Mexico. But any holiday celebration where sparkling wines will be poured should start with one question: how do we get the wines he makes at Vara on the table.

Gruet remains driven by clean fruit, balance and authenticity. At Vara, his newest chapter, he continues crafting bright, brioche-kissed, incredibly dry sparkling wines that elevate every celebration, especially during the holidays.

The last time we spoke he told me: “acidity is your friend.” I couldn’t agree more, crunchy, taut, crispy and bursting with acidity are what should be highlights of every sparkling wine.

In addition to everything made at Vara, here are seven other wines worthy to be popped this holiday season:

Carmen Brut Nature ($34.99): Carmen’s Brut Nature, produced in the traditional method, leans into purity and precision. The first ultra-premium sparkling wine from Chile’s Viña Carmen, there’s zero dosage. The wine relies on the inherent grace of its 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir blend. A tautly blended wine made in the traditional method there’s zero dosage. No sugar added, so the blend of 85% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir becomes mineral driven, crisp and layered with flavors. Aromas of lemon peel, green pear, fresh-cut apple and chalk dust mingle with subtle brioche and raw almond tones. Citrus, green pear and white peach are your razor-sharp flavors that cut through saline, breakfast pastry and toasty hazelnut notes.

Cleto Chiarli Rosé de Noir Brut ($18): Sit back and have fun with this ultra-fresh expression of sparkling wine with high acidity, lively aromatics and a pronounced red fruit profile. Produced using the Charmat method, the wine maintains a bright, fruit-driven profile. On the nose wild strawberries, sour cherries and even pink grapefruit emerge. But it’s the hints of a babbling brook on a cold spring day, mossy rock and minerality that are enticing.

Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Alta Langa DOCG Millesimato 2020 ($33): Elegance and tradition meet with Piedmont’s high-elevation vineyards being the star of the show. Cooler slopes, long hang times and intense sunshine make for a dramatic sparkling wine. Made in the traditional method flavors of red fruit: strawberry and raspberry burst from the glass. The development of the nose intrigues with the peach, marzipan and mossy rock notes. There are subtle herbal notes under the strawberry and ripe peach flavors. Embrace the touch of a chalky texture that sweeps in on a finish that wraps with citrus and brioche.

Garafòli Rosé Pet-Ken ($18): A fruit forward, expressive wine with strawberry, pomegranate seeds and Rainier cherry flavors. It’s not a one-note fruit bomb though. There are rose petal, hibiscus and iron-like mineral notes offering an undercurrent of support. Flavors of strawberry and white cherry echo the aromas and bits of citrus and grapefruit even join the fray on the finish.

La Vigne Isabella Blanc de Noir Sparkling ($39): An awesome sparkling wine with a diverse collection of flavors. Hailing from Paso Robles, a region known more for its bold, juicy red wines, this sparkling sangiovese - there’s no skin contact so its free run juice is white - it’s my most dynamic sparkling wine of the season. Made in the traditional method, there are yellow apple, pear and white peach aromas layered over flaky croissant notes. There’s a bold kiss of California sunshine with baked apple, honeydew and dried apricot flavors. Yet, the streamlined mineral notes and brioche bun flavors offer a fascinating compliment to the fruit notes. Paso Robles might have found another crowd pleaser to join its excellent Rhone varieties.

Mtsvane Estate Pet-Nat ($27): This Georgian pét-nat is a blend of 70% Chinuri and 30% Goruli Mtsvane. It’s a vibrant, textural look into the character of Kartli’s native varieties. Chinuri offers a crispy acidity and green-fruited profile while the Goruli Mtsvane layers in an aromatic lift and subtle stone-fruit warmth. On the nose there’s lime blossom, green apple, quince and the essence of crushed herbs, followed by hints of pear flesh and a faint dusty limestone note. From there the transition ushers in white peach, underripe melon and hints of slightly nutty flavors.

Robert Wessman “This Life” ($21): An absolute bargain for a wine made in the traditional method. A fine mousse and a clean, crispy flavor profile make it a smart buy for your Christmas or New Year’s celebrations. There’s lemon curd, fresh cream, white flowers and almond cookie notes on the nose. Snappy green apple and Meyer lemon flavors are underpinned by a salty, dough note. Hints of citrus and honeysuckle are a contrasting treat on the finish.