Quaker Run Vineyard is totally out of place.

Not the vines that climb its slopes, but the fractured soils, the jagged shards of ancient rock and the remnants of old mountain slides that make up its foundation. By most viticultural logic, this patch of Virginia hillside which is nearly 1,000 feet in elevation, is inhospitable ground. Yet, here it is the location where Early Mountain Vineyards found one of its most remarkable sites.

Winemaker Maya Hood White says the paradox is where Quaker Run Vineyard gets its power.

“What makes some of these old mountain ridges so interesting is they are very degraded,” Hood White said. “When we got into the soil pits it was fascinating. We laid out the vineyard and found an interesting mix of soil, structure and rock. A geologist looked at the soil and core samples, and that’s when it got real interesting. We found evidence that Quaker Ridge was formed by an old land slide. You don’t usually see these rocks at this elevation. The rock diversity is unique to its place.”

Because of the fractured soils and steep terrain that challenge the vines their roots are forced to dig deep. It’s a stress that is translated into intensity in the glass. Add in the altitude, drainage and exposure, and Hood White knew Quaker Run was too special not to expand.

Planted in 1999, the vineyard holds some of Virginia’s oldest vines. Farming is no easy task, but the reward is fruit with density, freshness and a sense of place unlike anywhere else.

One of the clearest expressions of that site is the Early Mountain RISE 2021 ($150), a limited-production Bordeaux-style blend of 58% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 15% Tannat, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine carries bold layers of ripe plum, cedar and chocolate nibs. Vibrant acidity keeps the fruit lifted, while finely integrated tannins give the wine its structure.

“RISE is a wine that makes itself,” Hood White said. “When you hit that blend, you know, ‘this is it.’ You can keep trying, but you know this is the blend. It’s so clear at that moment. Some of that is because I’m not beholden to too many things.”

Only the best vintages produce RISE. My bottle carried the number 1,569 on the back label. A reminder of its rarity. For now, availability is limited, but change is coming.

“There’s a huge expansion coming next year,” Hood White said. “We are out checking plant material in Bakersfield to make sure it’s sound. We have an amazing site where our extracted reds come from.”

Quaker Run’s existence may defy expectations, but the wines it yields prove the vineyard belongs. What began as broken rock and remnants of an ancient landslide has become the foundation for some of the most distinctive wines in Virginia.

The Sommelier’s Secret Red Wine Challenge

Dave Mattern, Beverage Director and Partner at Truluck’s, wanted a way to liven up the slower season.

Little did he know, his idea would turn into a nationwide sensation.

The Sommelier’s Secret Red Wine Challenge invites guests to order a $20 mystery glass of red wine. If they can correctly identify it, it’s free. Even better, each pour is typically worth more than $20, so guests always win. Even if their guess misses the mark.

Once a wine is correctly identified, it’s retired from the lineup and replaced by another secret selection. Until then, its identity remains under wraps. Guests who guess incorrectly can leave their card with the manager to find out later when the mystery is revealed.

At Truluck’s in Naples, Florida, the concept quickly caught fire.

“The manager sent out 25 emails the first night the wine was guessed,” Mattern said. “Every single person wrote back because they were thinking about it for days afterward.”

What started as a playful White Wine Challenge in August that featured crisp Albariños, Furmints and Timorassos, evolved into the red edition after general managers nationwide chanted, “We want red!”

From Bordeaux blends to Napa Cabernets, the Sommelier’s Secret Challenge is sparking conversation, connection and friendly competition across Truluck’s 12 locations.

“It’s fun, it’s interactive, and the wine is always worth it,” Mattern said.

With oysters at their peak and stone crab season on the way, it’s the perfect time to raise a glass and make your best guess.

The Local Truluck’s Address: 9860 Berwyn Ave., Rosemont