In the presence of the Dolomite Mountains, Mezzacorona has made a unique Pinot Grigio from high-altitude sites.
Hailing from vineyards between 700 and 1,600 feet above sea level in Trentino, Italy the intensity of the sun has hardened the grapes. Their skins grow thicker as a protective measure which helps lock in a distinct set of aromatics and more structure than Pinot Grigio grown at sea level.
Driven by extreme temperature swings from daytime heating to nighttime cooling - diurnal shifts - Mezzacorona winemaker Lucio Matricardi has crafted “Domenica” Trentino DOC ($13.99) in the shadows of the mountain peaks that soar over 10,000 feet.
“The cold strengthens the thin grape skins, accumulating more aromas, and preserving acidity,” Matricardi said. “This allows for a later harvest, leading to greater aroma and mineral concentration, and natural acidity.
There are peach, pear, granite and mineral notes on a white loaded with crispy flavors.
“The unique balance of fruit-forwardness and crisp, mineral backbone comes from the daily cool Mediterranean warmth promoting aroma development, followed by the cold of the night preserving these compounds,” Matricardi said. “This perfect rhythm makes Trentino’s Pinot Grigio highly authentic and rich, a testament to the ideal territory-grape synergy.”
As important as the aspect ratio to the sun, the soil is just as influential. The geological quilt of Trentino where there are patches of alluvial earth, Dolomitic limestone and volcanic marl. Each has imparted their thumbprint on the fruit, and provided him with numerous opportunities for diversity in flavor and aroma.
“While Pinot Grigio is naturally aromatic, the Dolomites’ cool, well-ventilated climate is crucial,” Matricardi said. “Grapes are never “cooked,” preventing climatic stress. Careful winemaking where we do hand-harvesting, gentle pressing and the use of nitrogen further preserved these delicate aromas.”
NEWS & TASTING NOTES
Kathryn Hall on the Road, Joe’s Prime Steak and Stone Crab, reception 6:30/dinner at 7 p.m., Oct. 9, Chicago ($203): The Napa Valley winery with the giant stainless steel bunny sculpture, Bunny Foo Foo, leaping out of its vineyard hits the road for its 30th Anniversary. Hall, who was the US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001 hosts the event where her wines will be paired with a multi-course menu.
Kaltern Schiava Gentile DOC 2023 ($27.99): Light in color, almost Pinot Noir–like in the glass, this is an easy-sipping red brimming with sour cherry, strawberry and a splash of fruit punch. From Alto Adige.
Attems Cicinis Collio Bianco 2022 ($26.99):Fresh-cut grass and citrus define this wine, with lemon, lime and grapefruit at the core. The finish is zesty and energetic, capped by a sharp jab of lime zest.
Alessandro di Camporeale Benedè Catarratto 2024 ($18): Quince, yellow apple and sage weave together in a white with a rounded, supple mouthfeel that lingers gracefully.
Le Anfore di Elena Casadei Cannonau di Sardegna 2022 ($19.99): A velvety texture frames raspberry, tart cherry skin and blueberry notes, creating a red that balances softness with depth of flavor.
Pfitscher Gewürztraminer Stoass DOC 2024 ($19.99): Geranium and elderflower rise from the nose, while quince paste and a savory touch of grilled pear emerge on the palate, seasoned with a hint of salinity. From Alto Adige.