Zest Bistro TV makeover proves hit in Downers Grove for Mystery Diner

DOWNERS GROVE – A star turn on the Food Network show "Restaurant Impossible" spotlighted Lemon Tree Grocer in Downers Grove and the Zest Bistro located within, where the food has always been center stage.

Celebrity chef Robert Irvine, host of the television program, said it was one of just a few times in years of filming the show that he actually enjoyed the food served at the outset. That's high praise from a well-regarded chef who never hesitates to call it like he sees it.

That there was nothing wrong with the menu in the first place was confirmed when my date and I recently paid a visit to Zest. Though we were both hungry, we asked our waiter to give us more time to peruse the choices, because every item sounded delectable.

Before picking entrees, we decided to appease our appetites by ordering the short rib nachos appetizer. Thick and crunchy tortilla chips were the foundation for a great blend of flavors that ranged from the sweetness of the beef to the tang of cotija cheese sauce and lime horseradish crema, with a hint of spiciness from fresh green chilis.

We paired our appetizer with beverages. My date picked a beer from an impressive list of offerings by independent breweries, while I chose the Dark and Stormy Mule served in a copper mug. The rum-based drink did a dance on my taste buds with simple syrup and ginger beer leading the tango.

Irvine's signature pot roast, introduced to the menu after his recent visit to Downers Grove, must be a fan favorite, as Zest had just served the last of a roast made a bit earlier in the day and was in the process of cooking a second

My companion was slightly disappointed not to be able to try the dish, but that changed when her salmon entree arrived. The perfectly cooked fillet was coated in a honey mustard glaze and served with a sweet and tangy orange mustard vinaigrette. Grilled asparagus and pearl couscous were perfect complements. I am not normally a fan of fish (or asparagus, for that matter), but even I was impressed with the dish and the way it was presented.

I set aside my desire for the bacon-and-blue-cheese-infused hamburger with truffled mayo and sampled the Cuban sandwich. The fresh ground mustard worked well with sweet pickles and the smokiness of the pork, all encased in a perfectly toasted Cuban roll, akin to French bread.

For dessert, we tried the salted caramel cheesecake. It looked so much like ice cream we thought it would be cold, but it was light, fluffy and sweet with the right amount of salted caramel flavor on top of a toasty graham cracker crust.

As chef Irvine noted on "Restaurant Impossible," the food at Zest has always been worthy of attention. He tends to overhaul the menu at eateries on the show, but, aside from his namesake pot roast, did little to change Zest's offerings. The major upgrades at Lemon Tree were made to the grocery side of the store and the visual design of the restaurant.

What was once an easily overlooked corner of the market is now a great gathering spot. Zest immediately draws attention with bright colors and an inviting layout that includes tables for parties of all sizes, as well as bar seating.

Our waiter was attentive and knowledgeable, especially when it came to beer selections; he clearly had a passion for the varied nuances of independent brews.

Reservations for Zest can be made on the Lemon Tree website. I booked a table and was glad I did, as there was a short wait for seating. Thanks to the bistro renovation and the fantastic food, its winning ways are now in clear focus.

The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life Media. The diner's identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. Only positive dining experiences will result in published reviews.