Tom’s Cookbook Library: A Vietnamese take on Oxtail stew

Charles Phan, an award-winning restaurateur who opened The Slanted Door in San Francisco in 1995, shares secrets about the food from his native Vietnam that inspired him to create “The Slanted Door” (Ten Speed Press).

Phan, who moved to the United States in 1977, borrowed a culinary cue or two from his mother’s French-Vietnamese cooking style, taking it to new levels.

His cookbook, written with Janny Hu and subtitled “Modern Vietnamese Food,” is divided into various chapters including Starters, Cocktails, Raw Bar, Salads, Soups, Mains and Desserts – all with enticing photos by Ed Anderson.

For a tasty example of the powerful flavors Phan achieves, look no further than his Braised Oxtail Stew, which, he points out, derives a Vietnamese “kick” from lemongrass, Thai chiles and star anise. Allow plenty of time for the ingredients, including onions and tomatoes, to break down and for the flavors to meld.

Serve the stew with steamed rice and vegetables.

BRAISED OXTAIL STEW

(Serves 4 to 6)

1 oxtail, about 3 lbs., cut into 2- to 3-in. pieces

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Canola oil

1 yellow onion, diced

5 cloves garlic, smashed

2 cups canned crushed tomatoes

1 cup red wine

2 Tbl. tomato paste

2-in. piece fresh ginger, smashed

3 stalks lemongrass, trimmed

3 cups beef stock or water

1/2 bunch celery cut into 3-in. pieces

2 large carrots, cut into 3-in. pieces

12 whole cloves

4 star anise pods

4 Thai chilies

Cilantro, for garnish

Season the oxtails liberally with salt and pepper and refrigerate overnight.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat, adding enough oil to coat the bottom of the pot. working in batches, sear the oxtail until the beat is browned, about 2 minutes on each side. Set aside the browned meat and turn down the heat to medium.

Add 3 tablespoons of oil to the same pot and heat until shimmering. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are caramelized, about 7 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, red wine, tomato paste and ginger. Bruise the lemongrass by smashing with the bottom of a small pot or the dull side of a cleaver, and add to the pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the beef stock, celery, carrots, cloves, star anise, chilies and oxtail and continue to simmer until the meat falls off the bone, about another 3 hours. Garnish with cilantro.