Sauk Valley

Discover tasty rewards of using Greek yogurt in recipes

As the American palate has grown more cultured, so too have our dairy aisles – with yogurt.

Organic, grass-fed, cream-top and squeezable varieties have taken their places next to kefir, Icelandic yogurt and even goat yogurt selections. The most popular new arrival in yogurtland, however, is the thick rich variety known as Greek yogurt. In addition to Fage, Chobani and Voskos, Stonyfield’s Oikos and Trader Joe’s have launched their own Greek yogurts in organic varieties. Starbucks even serves cups of Greek yogurt with honey.

But what makes yogurt Greek?

Purists will tell you that real Greek yogurt is made from raw goat or sheep’s milk and often boasts a double-digit butterfat content. American Greek yogurt is another story, though. Here, Greek yogurt is almost always made with cow’s milk – usually pasteurized – and can range from no fat to full fat. The one consistent factor: extensive straining that removes much of the liquid whey and therefore the lactose and sugar. This leaves a thicker, tarter, more concentrated product with almost twice the protein of regular yogurt and less lactose to bother the lactose intolerant.

Its richness also makes it easier to cook with and less likely to break up when heated.

David Schneider is the chef-owner of Chicago’s Taxim restaurant, which serves house-made Greek yogurt in several sweet and savory dishes. Growing up in a half-Greek family and spending his summers with relatives on the Greek Isles, he learned to appreciate the creamy product in a variety of ways.

“Most commonly my family eats it with warm rice for breakfast,” Schneider says. “It’s something my grandmother eats on a daily basis. The rice would be warmed but the yogurt would be cold and she might add a bit of salt, herbs, butter or olive oil.”

Although most Americans associate yogurt with sweet flavors, Schneider believes more are “rediscovering yogurt as a savory food and a healthful part of the Mediterranean diet.” He uses it to make dips and sauces to accompany meats and bread at his restaurant. Still, he also enjoys it with “honey, dried fruit like figs and some fresh walnuts.”

Indeed, Greek yogurt with honey is the most common sweetened variety on shelves today, along with berry-flavored varieties. Stonyfield, which makes Oikos organic Greek yogurt, plans to expand the category even further this January, with a chocolate and caramel Greek yogurt.

To help you navigate the aisles of Greek yogurts, we recently tried more than 11 varieties in a blind test to determine the best in three major categories: full fat, no fat and honey flavored.

Full fat/whole milk

■ 1. Fage total

Price per ounce:
25-28 cents

Taster comments: “Thick and fluffy like whipped cream” and “tangy,” “rich,” “sour cream” flavor, finished by a “lemony aftertaste”

■ 2. Trader Joe’s

Price per ounce:
15 cents

Taster comments: “Sour and chalky,” “buttery, tangy but odd late taste,” “mildly off taste,” “slightly tart”

Zero fat

■ 1. Fage total

Price per ounce:
25-28 cents

Taster comments: “Richer than the rest,” “good mouthfeel, “nice richness and milk flavor,” “lemony.” But one said “an off taste”

■ 2. Oikos

Price per ounce:
34 cents

Taster comments: “Creamy but light texture with hint of lemon,” “nice distinct yogurt taste,” “plain tart taste”

■ 3. Chobani

Price per ounce:
28 cents

Taster comments: “Cheesy cooked flavor,” “strong tasting,” “barnyardy,” “pronounced milky rich flavor”

■ 4. Siggis Icelandic Yogurt (made almost exactly like Greek yogurt)

Price per ounce:
50 cents

Taster comments: “Tart and puckering, like eating a lime,” “tastes like a barnyard.” Others said: “classic yogurt taste,” “nice tartness and dairy flavor”

■ 5. Trader Joe’s

Price per ounce:
18 cents

Taster comments: “Thin, watery, bland,” “tastes and looks low-fat”

Honey

■ 1. Fage total

Price per ounce:
38 cents

Taster comments: “Honey balances the tart,” ‘’hint of lemon,” “rich taste and excellent honey,” “not too sweet, very good”

■ 2. Oikos Organic

Price per ounce: 33

Taster comments: “Nice sweet and sour balance,” “yum, pleasant lemon and honey taste,” “classic yogurt taste but nice honey flavor comes through”

■ 3. Voskos

Price per ounce:
22 cents

Taster comments: “Nice honey flavor but a little too sweet,” “very strong floral honey notes”

■ 4. Trader Joe’s Organic

Price per ounce: 31 cents

Taster comments: “This is not nice honey,” “ack, chalky,” “honey too strong, artificial tasting”

Note: Prices are based on purchases from Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s.