Mystery Diner in Crystal Lake: Labemi’s Tavern an enduring downtown staple

Even as a number of new eateries cropped up in recent years around downtown Crystal Lake, Labemi’s Tavern and Restaurant remains one of the old stalwarts along Main Street.

Labemi’s, which, according to its website, has been open since 1983, is not decked out with unusual theming elements or particularly trendy menu items. Inside, it’s a subtly lit, old-fashioned bar where the menu and aesthetics definitely evoke a hearty, retro feel, and judging by the conversation, the patrons seem to like it that way.

The customers sitting at the busy bar all seemed to be regulars, chatting with each other and the bartender. One group of guests joked about spending tip money on the video poker machines, while someone discussed with the bartender how their respective weeks had been going and the state of business at the restaurant.

The tavern’s menu includes standard pub appetizers like pretzels and pub cheese, chicken wings and cheese curds, while the entrees list leans on classic meat dishes: steak, ribs, fried chicken and fish.

There are some glaring exceptions: the duck wings and almond-crusted duck tenders stand out on the menu as creative options you won’t find at many other places.

I ordered the tenders with jalapeño-mango sauce and some bleu cheese, just to compare. The duck meat was dark, lean and richly flavored, and true to the dish’s name, the meat was extremely tender. The almond crust didn’t stand out any more than your typical wing or tenders breading, but paired with the sauce for an excellent combo. The duck tenders were definitely a more memorable snack than classic Buffalo wings.

For main dishes, I ordered the ribs and chicken special, as well as the pan-fried walleye.

The ribs and the walleye were both excellent. The special served up a hefty portion of lean ribs, which were delightfully heavy on sauce – a must for me.

The walleye, which I ordered with rice and vegetables, had the perfect flakiness, and I found it very flavorful.

The mild-mannered fried chicken was good, with the outer skin nice and crisp, and the meat the right amount of juicy.

The entree portions are large. This is a good place to come hungry. The bartender and wait staff were friendly and attentive; the bartender noted that the duck tenders are his favorite meal at the restaurant.

The bar’s tap list is compact, but does include a few craft selections from Holzlager in Woodstock and Black and Gray in East Dundee. The bar is long on liquors, and highlights cocktails and wine. An outdoor deck will be another attraction when warmer weather arrives.

• The Mystery Diner is an employee at the Northwest Herald. The diner’s identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. The Mystery Diner visits a different restaurant and then reports on the experience. If the Mystery Diner cannot recommend the establishment, we will not publish a review.

Seeking reader suggestions: We welcome readers to share their recommendations of places they would like the Mystery Diner to visit. Please email ideas to tips@nwherald.com.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Labemi’s Tavern and Restaurant

WHERE: 109 N. Main St., Crystal Lake

PHONE: 815-459-3336

INFORMATION: labemis.com