GENEVA – Home cooking takes on a whole new meaning at Riganato Old World Grille, set in a former residence just east of Geneva’s downtown. The tile-roofed house sets the stage for Mediterranean dining created by the father-and-son team of Nick and Jimmy Nicolaou.
Jimmy Nicolaou called the cuisine Italian fusion.
“My family is Greek and Italian, so we kind of go outside the box with Italian and Greek, and other Mediterranean influences as well,” he said.
An example of their creativity is their jalapeño-and-ricotta-stuffed gnocchi with fresh cilantro-walnut pesto.
“We play with the Mediterranean sphere a little,” Jimmy Nicolaou said.
Before Riganato, the space had been home to the longtime restaurant The Rib House.
“We renovated and made it beautiful,” Nick Nicolaou said. “Every day, we cook everything from scratch. [Using] fresh ingredients, we try to serve the best food possible.”
Jimmy Nicolaou said among the most popular items are the ricotta-stuffed meatballs, available alone as an appetizer, or featured in a sandwich or entree. Their in-house pasta sauce is made with traditional San Marzano tomatoes.
In addition to the menu’s regular seafood, a fresh, wild-caught fish is highlighted each day, ranging from Mediterranean sea bass to northern Canadian lake trout.
The kitchen features an in-house fresh ground chuck burger and prime Colorado center-cut lamb chops, along with trademark super-thin-crust pizza, steaks, chops, pastas, sandwiches and paninis.
Jimmy Nicolaou said the most popular salad is the roasted beet and walnut salad with goat cheese.
People avoiding gluten are in for a treat with an expansive array of options – from items that are naturally gluten-free, to pastas and their house-made pizza crust, prepared with a special flour mix.
“We have these awesome 800-degree ovens,” Jimmy said. “The gluten-free is very thin crust. We try to maintain the cracker-thin crust of our regular dough in the gluten-free [version].”
Riganato opened four years ago, and to accommodate demand, enclosed the outdoor deck in back to create another attractive dining space – one that’s also ideal for private parties. It was designed with large windows that open to catch the breeze on nice days.
Come next summer, they plan to build a new outdoor deck to bring back the al fresco experience.
The main dining room, with its fireplace and food-focused art, is bright with natural light by day. At night, lights are dimmed and candles lit. Nick and Jimmy Nicolaou make a point to try to stop by patrons’ tables.
“It’s something we enjoy doing,” Jimmy Nicolaou said.
He said they have relished getting to know customers, and appreciate the supportive city of Geneva.
In return, they have developed relationships with other businesses in town, such as Galena Garlic, which supplies some of their kitchen’s oils, rubs and sea salt blends, including a blend used in a special Mediterranean fig and blood orange cocktail.
Jimmy Nicolaou said the drink is made with a fig-infused vodka, blood orange San Pellegrino and a little Cointreau orange liqueur, garnished with a blood orange sea salt blend.
The wine list focuses on varieties from California, Oregon and Europe, and there are craft beer selections.
“My father is from the old world and I bring a new culinary approach [for] a blend of old school and new school,” Jimmy Nicolaou said.
The restaurant is unique, not pretentious, Jimmy Nicolaou added, noting he and his father like to come up with new dishes as specials, so something different always awaits.
Riganato, which offers catering and carryout, is located at 700 E. State St. (Route 38), Geneva. It is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m seven days a week. For information, visit riganato.com or call 331-248-0191.