The rolling hills at Cuvaison were home to a dairy farm in the 1970s.
But the early 1980s introduced the Los Carneros American Viticultural Area, which sits in parts of Napa and Sonoma counties, to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The varieties can both shine in cool-climate conditions, and Carneros has the frigid San Pablo Bay to usher in a fog layer that lingers until 11 a.m. on most days.
While the central part of California heats up during the day, the warm air rises and draws air off the cold Pacific Ocean; Carneros is one of the first places it arrives in the form of cool, windy afternoons.
Originally sparkling wines houses made inroads into Carneros. But still wines soon followed, and the resulting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are loaded with character.
Winemaker Spotlight
Cuvaison winemaker Steve Rogstad earned a degree in literature, but he didn’t have a career idea until he spent some time in Paris and became fascinated with wine. He later moved to California and began graduate studies at UC Davis.
As we sat on the balcony of the elegantly modern Cuvaison tasting room on a picture perfect day, the longtime winemaker pointed out Milliken Peak just west of us, which is the southern border of the Mt. Veeder appellation and the source for Brandlin, the Cabernet Sauvignon label he also crafts.
Rogstad knows every hill on the property well. There’s the high point where you can see San Francisco in the distance on a clear day and the Spire block which was a few rows from the balcony, which always seems to ripen perfectly.
“Cuvaison is broken up like a Burgundy appellation,” Rogstad said. “We examined the soil, its depth and exposure at each block. That’s how we determined the size of the block.”
It takes three passes to harvest Cuvaison Spire Pinot Noir 2013 ($52) since it ripens top to bottom and sits on a hill. Lighter in body yet brooding, bold flavors of black cherry and tobacco frame an intense finish.
At Cuvaison the attention to blocks results in a wine portfolio that represents the unique parcels of the estate. There’s the Chardonnay grown on the lowest land parcel in an area called the flats, a spot so low it’s the only one susceptible to frost. It’s also the slowest to ripen.
The Cuvaison Kite Tail Chardonnay 2013 ($44) is located on a ridgeline and is planted to the Old Wente clone. Fermented in 500-liter puncheons to slow the evaporation and oxygen transfer, it’s aged 16 months in barrel, which is twice as long as their other Chardonnay.
“It’s a low-yielding clone that has fruit sets with lots of hens and chicks,” Rogstad said of the wine, which is a pale yellow color in the glass yet has an intense mouth feel with candied ginger, stone fruit, and red apple on a long-lasting finish. “So it has a real high acidity and ripens late.”
Bought in 1898 and planted in 1926, during Prohibition, Brandlin is an outstanding source of mountain wines.
There’s the Brandlin Mount Veeder Napa Valley Estate Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($60) which has a rustic edge and is inky dark in the glass. Pencil shavings, conifer, fennel and mint provide a taste of the mountain. Brandlin Mount Veeder Henry’s Keep 2012 ($98) has licorice, graphite and bay leaf; a wine that was excellent now, but will be exciting to revisit in 10 years.
What to Buy
Value Buy: Anthony and Dominic Napa Valley Pinot Noir 2012 ($17.99): At first impression it seems dense and brooding, but ripe strawberry and blackberry notes open up along with tea and earth notes.
Savvy Buy: Anaba Sonoma Valley Turbine Red 2013 ($28): Chicago native and proprietor John Sweazy has another easy drinking Rhone blend that’s perfect for a fall barbecue. From the Petaluma Gap, an area in Sonoma County, California, that could easily be its own AVA one day, comes a fruit-forward beauty. There are pretty black cherry, plum and a cadre of spice notes that include Chinese five spice, cinnamon stick and nutmeg.
The blend is 42 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvedre and 28 percent Syrah. The varietals provide a harmonic mix of pretty fruit notes, spicy flavors and meaty back-bone.
Ready to Drink: Arrowood Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($35): Friendly tannins and fruit flavors of raspberry, currant and black cherry.
A judicious usage of oak lets the fruit mingle well with vanilla, tobacco, spice and dusty cocoa.
Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon is on the rise in terms of quality and price and winemaker Kristina Werner has Arrowood poised to make a move as she’s focused on Alexander Valley, Knights Valley and Sonoma Valley. It will be interesting to seek out the AVA specific bottling when they are released.
• James Nokes writes a bi-weekly wine column for the Daily Chronicle. He’s been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Contact him at news@daily-chronicle.com.