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Mark Maruszak knows how to play the classics.
At Benny’s Chop House, a classy steakhouse neatly tucked into a corner space a few blocks from Michigan Avenue’s Magnificent Mile in Chicago, the sommelier has assembled an 8,000-bottle cellar. The strengths of which are domestic red wines along with wines from France, Italy and Spain.
On Thursday night, he played a pairing game as he showcased wines that complimented and contrasted the chef’s dinner selections. The delicate Ahi Tuna Poke with a creamy avocado sauce matched up with a buttery, oaky Groth Hillview Vineyard Chardonnay from Napa Valley but stood in firm contrast to the Babich Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand.
A salmon served on a bed of brown rice with a silky cut of Miyazaki filet again saw a day and night comparison from G.D. Vajra, Barolo Albe from Piedmont and High Head Pinot Noir, the second label from Sonoma’s Three Sticks. A leaner Italian red with racy acidity contrasted with a bolder Pinot with ripe red fruit and a tempting spice note.
While he might stick to the classics, just as the Rolling Stones did Friday at Soldier Field, Maruszak showcased the versatility of the cellar with his pairings. He takes pride in having the restaurant’s online wine list updated and said it’s his pet peeve when establishments post fraudulent “show-me wine lists” to impress customers but don’t actually have the rare bottle.
At Benny’s, where 90% of sales are red wines and 10% white, the 1945 Chateau d’Yquem really does exist, I’ve held it and marveled at the faded label, cork that is in great condition and golden-colored wine that’s fill is just around the neck. They have the Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1990 and Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2009.
“We stick to classic wines, from classic regions, from classic producers,” Maruszak said. “We have one of the largest wine collections in Chicago. Not many restaurants have over 1,000 labels. Domestic reds from the U.S. and France, Italy and Spain are the rocks of the program.”
While it’s not a secret, the values in Burgundy are extraordinary. Wines that could fetch big prices at auction are still sold at Benny’s based on the market price when purchased. Sure, it’s a pricey purchase, but the wine has been aged in perfect conditions and at current retail or auction, would sell for considerably more.
If there’s one wine Maruszak wishes would come back into fashion it would be Champagne. It’s one of his favorites to drink and has lately been replaced by Napa Valley red wine in customer’s orders.
“I love the carbonation behind it,” Maruszak said. “I really enjoy the oxidative style of champagne honestly; people don’t drink enough of it. Maybe it’s the price point. The days are gone where people came in to order a seafood tower and a bottle of champagne.
Now customers want to pair that with a Napa Cab.”
But, the consumer’s wine education continues to evolve with various apps that provide information and tasting throughout the city.
“Chicago is at an interesting wine crossroads,” Maruszak said. “There are always trade shows and supplier visits from around the world. You get so many invites and exposure to open the wine world and the education that comes along with it.”
With that knowledge, it’s not always easy to play the classics just right. But, Maruszak plays the crowd-pleasing hits and hopes Champagne will again rejoin the set list.
• James Nokes writes a bi-weekly wine column for the Daily Chronicle. He's been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Contact him at news@daily-chronicle.com.