Steamboat Barbecue in Wheaton pilots diners to flavor: Mystery Diner

WHEATON – Steamboat Barbecue has found a tried-and-true recipe for success: award-winning, no frills barbecue served in a family-friendly atmosphere. It's a mantra that has the city buzzing about what owner John Bovinette is cooking up in his Southern Pride smoker.

Maneuvering past the picnic tables and through the front door, the first thing you notice inside Steamboat are the couple dozen barbecue trophies, ribbons, plaques and medals lining the side wall. And if that doesn't get your attention, the rich, delectable aroma wafting from the massive smoker behind the counter reminds you that you came to the right place for smoked meats.

The friendly staff is more than happy to help navigate a menu that encompasses an eclectic mix of barbecue fare, from famed St. Louis style ribs, to Texas brisket and burnt ends, to pulled pork that rivals eateries in Memphis and the Carolinas, and even wings, rib tips and seafood popularized in soul food joints.

For first-time patrons, it is hard to go wrong with a two- or three-meat combo that incorporates a little bit of everything. After splitting an appetizer of melt-in-your-mouth mac-n-cheese bites, I settled on a plate with ribs, brisket and hot links, while my companion opted for a pound of rib tips and fries.

Served with a choice of two sides – I went with the cornbread and baked beans – the combo plate lived up to its billing, as all three meats exceeded my expectations.

The brisket was a knockout: moist and tender, with a wonderfully smoky char on the exterior. The pork hot links were equally delicious, packed with a potent but not overpowering heat.

The star of the show, however, were the St. Louis style ribs. Smoked to perfection, the crispy outside of the ribs perfectly complemented the juicy, meaty goodness on the interior. The meat struck that impeccable balance of tenderness in which it falls off the bone but is not mushy.

My fellow diner made a similar analysis of the rib tips.

"I ordered the rib tips, though the selection process was anything but easy, because there were so many items to choose from," he said. "The meat was tender and fell off the bone. Mixed with the sweet barbecue sauce, this made for some of the best beef I’ve ever tasted. Also, the atmosphere of the restaurant is not to be missed, as the aroma adds to the dining experience."

Most of the meats come naked, allowing customers to take full advantage of their homemade barbecue sauce selection, which ranges from a tangy Carolina mustard sauce to a sweet and rich apple bourbon. Additionally, fans of spicy food will not be disappointed in the Firebox hot sauce.

The casual, welcoming atmosphere of Steamboat is second to none, and the prices are also very friendly. Patrons order at the counter, then have their pick of either indoor seating or an outdoor picnic table. While waiting for the food, it is not uncommon for Bovinette, the owner, to approach you and strike up a conversation.

The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life Media. The diner's identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. Only positive dining experiences will result in published reviews.