Mystery Diner: Sushi for the seasoned pro at Bento Cafe

My approach to Bento Cafe was one of excitement. The place lit up with neon signs, looking like what I would expect the outside of a fish market in Japan to look like. I wasn’t so far off – Bento serves a long list of sushi options, a mix of bento boxes and rice and noodle bowls. And, as if in answer to my unspoken prayers, Bento has not one, but two varieties of Ramune, my favorite Japanese soda.

We arrived at about 8 p.m. on a Friday night. Drawing on my past sushi experiences, I was ready for a crowded, fun-loving atmosphere. Surprise was imminent, and we settled into our table with only one other couple in the small restaurant. Japanese décor floated on the walls and soft pop music gave the feel of an urban foreign cafe with an American twist. The twist, unfortunately, was a television behind the sushi bar that was on during our entire meal.

I decided to try the restaurant’s namesake and get a bento box. I ordered the bulgogi beef – my cohort ordered the chicken katsu. To pay homage to the area, we also ordered a Grayslake Roll sushi roll. And just for good measure, a piece each of tuna and salmon nigiri (raw fish on rice).

The bento boxes held the meat, salad and two fried dumplings. Both boxes overall had mild flavors. My bulgogi beef boasted a slightly muted sweet tanginess of traditional bulgogi sauce. The chicken katsu was a standard breaded chicken patty, albeit slightly more tender than normal. The highlight of the boxes came from an unlikely source – the salad dressing. Notes of Italian seasoning amped up with a sesame kick left me a little sad when the salad was gone. The boxes also came with a mild-flavored miso soup. Being less than a fan of miso, I found the subdued flavors hit my palate just right.

Bento’s take on Grayslake in sushi form is a deep-fried roll with eel, avocado, smoked salmon, cream cheese, sweet sauce and a spicy mayo. The price is a lofty $16.95, but any budget woes will be eased when you see the size of the massive roll. The cream cheese added a nice smooth touch to the roll. Both this roll and the two pieces of nigiri were at times a little difficult to chew. My companion was new to sushi and didn’t like it – the sushi here is better suited for hard-core sushi savants who are accustomed to all phases of a fish’s progression in taste throughout its sushi life.

The bottom line? Bento’s mildly-flavored food is just right for beginners to the Japanese cuisine experience who want something other than sushi.

Bento Cafe

9 W. Belvidere (Route 120), in Hainesville

847-231-6535

Prices: $2-$20

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday

•  Mystery Diner is a writer for the Lake County Journal. To recommend your favorite restaurant for a Mystery Diner visit, email lcjedit@lakecountyjournal.com.