Mystery Diner in Geneva: Osteria Bigolaro tempts with fresh new changes

The turn of the year brings changes to Osteria Bigolaro in Geneva, which recently added lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, a perfect time to try one of the artisan pizzas. They are something special at this destination for Italian dishes featuring house-made, fresh pasta.

The restaurant, whose name is a mouthful, is the creation of Chef Anthony Gargano. The word osteria means casual restaurant, while bigolaro is a vintage, hand-operated press for pasta. The dining room is off the open kitchen, where chef action provides plenty of circus for patrons. Gargano trained in classic French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago, and also studied in Italy.

Fans of his inventive fare additionally can try workshops taught at Gargano’s new enterprise, Fox Den Cooking Classes at 131 S. First St. in downtown St. Charles, mingling food and hands-on fun. Courses are offered for both adults and children, and venture into cuisines around the globe, from France to Asia, Greece, Italy and beyond.

The menu changes at Osteria Bigolaro, where Gargano, a wizard at making artisan breads, variously will offer different styles of pizza including a focaccia crust.

We dropped by for a late Friday lunch, and noticed the restaurant has redecorated, adopting warm earthen tones. Another fresh twist is the focus on sharing small plates featuring a new menu of regional dishes, described as “hand-crafted Italian bites.”

Over a sunset-hued Italian soft drink, Sanpellegrino’s blood orange flavor, we studied the menu.

We opened with the roasted beets to share, a colorful mix of red and golden beets complemented by a lusciously whipped goat cheese, its savory flavor contrasting nicely with lemon poppy-seed vinaigrette and a sprinkling of pistachios and dill. It proved to be an enticing way to eat your vegetables.

Then it was on to flavorful ricotta dumplings, wonderfully light in texture with a touch of breadcrumbs, paired with a classic red sauce, pecorino cheese and arugula. Our informative server told us the flour dumplings showcase house-made ricotta cheese.

We capped our meal with the di franco pizza, served on a superlative crust and topped with pancetta, caramelized red onions and fresh mozzarella. It arrived seasoned with red pepper flakes for some unexpected heat, which you should be able to adjust upon request. The quality of the pie is bliss for pizza lovers, down to the last bite of crust.

Other menu options extended to octopus with saffron aioli, a spicy Calabrian pasta and the half chicken diavolo. The restaurant offers handcrafted cocktails, a spritz bar and house-made limoncello, as well as espresso and cappuccino.

We were too full for dessert, but it tempted with a choice of panna cotta with honey and candied pistachios or the flourless brownie, with mixed berry compote and whipped cream.

Ah, next time.

• The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at the Kane County Chronicle. The diner’s identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. If the Mystery Diner cannot recommend the establishment, we will not publish a review.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Osteria Bigolaro

WHERE: 317 W. State St., Geneva

HOURS: 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday and Saturday

INFORMATION: 630-402-0597, www.osteriabigolarorestaurant.com