GLEN ELLYN – When we visited Enza Sicilian Osteria, a new addition to the Italian dining scene in Glen Ellyn, we took a liking to the kitchen’s inventive streak.

An interesting change-up was apparent in the caponata appetizer, a lush melding of eggplant, zucchini, celery and pomodori, served on a plate heavily dusted with cinnamon for a gentle kick. The unexpected spice brought to mind the wide-flung Mediterranean influences on the island of Sicily off southern Italy.

Reminiscent of an intimate neighborhood bistro in Europe, the restaurant has a dozen tables in the dining room, which stands separate from a lively bar with additional seating.

Rows of small chandeliers atop the high-ceilinged dining room add a celebratory sparkle to the relaxed space, and the lighting was dimmed to a romantic level as the evening progressed.

Our helpful server had filled us in on the restaurant’s farm-to-table approach, noting that the beef is grass-fed, and the emphasis is on organic ingredients. All the pastas are homemade in-house, as is the lavender-honey butter that arrived with our warm bread and an accompaniment of olive oil mingled with herbs, garlic and minced olives.

Next, we picked a salad called carciofi e sedano bianco, combining greens, artichoke hearts, white celery, apples and toasted walnuts with a pecorino apple vinaigrette that was refreshingly tart.

We noticed that instead of multiple pages of menu, Enza hones a select array of dishes, yet with no shortage of temptations.

My dining companion and I decided to share pasta and meat courses as our entree, and couldn’t resist trying the drunken spaghetti, something entirely new to us and labeled a house specialty.

The wonderful house-made noodles were married with pancetta, sautéed spinach, ricotta dolce and toasted walnuts. Enza’s drunken spaghetti is prepared with a port wine sauce instead of the customary red wine, which I learned about doing research on the recipe later, so smitten were we with the dish. The port added a caramelized richness and fortifying warmth to every bite. The Chianti riserva proved a good pairing.

The nod to experimentation is reflected in the restaurant website’s explanation of the name Enza, as deriving from the Italian word rinascenza, meaning renaissance or revival.

Our other entree choice was a juicy, farm-raised chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto, fresh sage and fontina, and bathed in a decadently creamy brandy sauce, with ample extra. None was left behind.

We finished our meal with cappuccino, and while we wished we were back in Italy, we appreciated Enza’s delicious take on the cuisine right here at home.

The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life Media. The diner's identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. Only positive dining experiences will result in published reviews.