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It’s a familiar refrain for winemakers: great wines are made in the vineyard, not the cellar.
The behind-the-scenes work in the vineyard takes place year-round. Harvest has the glamorous celebrations. But it’s a nerve-crunching game of chicken with Mother Nature that can be a labor-intensive marathon or an overnight blitz.
The growing season brings more weather-related challenges and the off-season is spent pruning, growing cover crop and getting the vineyard ready for spring.
Through it all, Mariano Navarro guides the process and makes sure the vineyard is ready for winemakers to capture the essence of the vintage as they bottle the detailed story of the growing season. For his achievements, the 2015 Wine Industry Awards named him California Vineyard Manager of the Year.
He’s the Napa Valley vineyard manager for Jackson Family Wines and has worked for the Santa Rosa-based vinter for 16 years.
Winemaker spotlight
Early in life, Navarro found his calling.
At just 12 years old, he worked with his father in the fields near Escondido in Southern California. By the time he was 17, he was working in the cellar and vineyards at San Pasqual Vineyards and Winery.
He’d eventually earn a bachelor’s degree from Cal State University, Fresno, in plant science and viticulture. Navarro works with vineyards from wines I’ve tasted including Cardinale, Lokoya, Mt. Brave, La Jota, Galerie and Freemark Abbey. He also works with Atalon.
The mountain vineyards in the Jackson portfolio turn out impressive wines with great depth of character.
Every year, these are some of the best wines I get to enjoy.
“Over the past three years, the Jackson Family has made important vineyard purchases on both Diamond Mountain and Spring Mountain which have added strength to our existing portfolio of premier vineyards in the mountain appellations, which already included acreage on Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain properties, which the family has had for many years,” Navarro said. “It ensures a consistent, high-quality source for our wineries.”
What to buy
Pop it: Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Mendocino County ($22). An elegant gold color with dominant ripe pear and red apple flavors. A creamy mouthfeel with hints of bread dough on the finish. This wine is 60 percent Chardonnay and 40 percent Pinot Noir.
Cellar it: Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2010 ($50). A dark purple color in the glass is a prelude to a rich, concentrated wine. There are plum, cassis, clove and anise flavors that rest around a dense oak-spiced frame. It’s drinkable right now but is a beautiful Sangiovese that has the power to age gracefully.
• James Nokes writes a bi-weekly wine column for the Daily Chronicle. He’s been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Contact him at news@daily-chronicle.com.