Gia Mia pizza bar by Brian Goewey in Wheaton fires up artisanal menu: Mystery Diner

WHEATON – A contemporary wood plank facade is the sleek new wrapping for the latest restaurant enterprise of chef-owner Brian Goewey, who named Gia Mia after his youngest daughter. It opened in downtown Wheaton in April, and specializes in wood-fired pizza, homemade pasta dishes and small plates, all ideal for sharing the inventive fresh flavors the chef already is known for at fire + wine in Glen Ellyn, where he's been a partner.

Gia Mia describes itself as a pizza bar that emphasizes farm-to-fork Italian cooking. The interior features pale shades of wood and brick that set a warm tone, along with dangling industrial chic bulbs for light.

A crowd set a convivial tone in the front dining room the weeknight we visited. The Blackhawks were playing a game running up to the finals, and a television there and one at the bar kept interested fans up on the score.

We opted for the mellow bar area, which offers lots of stools, and a cozy dining space of its own, all the better to watch the action at the pizza oven. The controlled inferno holds court in all its red-mosaic-tiled glory in the corner, and has ringside seating for diners.

The wine list is extensive and offers some plucky suggestions off the beaten path, such as an Austrian white – Grüner Veltliner – for a light summer aperitif. The mixologists also proffer craft beer selections.

We opened with a small-plate offering of veal meatballs basking in a zesty roasted tomato sauce and topped with little caps of whipped ricotta. The creamy cheese mimicked the velvety texture of the mild-flavored, finely ground meat.

We're glad we tried one of the unusual vegetable dishes: charred cauliflower. The mild roasted veggie provided the perfect canvas for a palette of flavors drawn from green and black olives, radicchio, parsley, pine nut crumb topping and local honey.

Next up had to be wood-fired pizza, so we decided on the pancetta and arugula combination, which arrived with a tasty, hand-formed crust drizzled with olive oil, and showing the tell-tale light charring on the edges. Prepared Neapolitan style, it had delectable smatterings of house-made mozzarella to contrast with the pancetta – an Italian spin on cured bacon – along with tomatoes, garlic, oregano and lemon. It was covered in fresh, baby arugula, a wonderfully peppery green.

We left room for dessert, but next time we plan on two pizzas and some more of the creative vegetables and salads on the menu, such as sugar snap peas prepared with shallots, garlic, mint, whipped ricotta and extra virgin olive oil, or the Tuscan black kale with pear, sunflower seeds, radish, candied dates and lemon.

Both pasta and pizza crust are available gluten-free, and the restaurant offers a varied menu for children.

As for dessert, we loved the Italian pudding and sorbet combo, an abundance of riches modestly served in a mug. The cooked-cream, panna cotta-inspired pudding was a light and smooth vanilla base for the explosion of fruity flavor in the blueberry sorbetto. It was outstanding.

Sweets lovers also have such temptations as Nutella pizza and ricotta fritters with chocolate chips.

The service was friendly and pampering, without being intrusive, helping make Gia Mia an engaging new personality joining Wheaton's vibrant dining scene.

The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life Media. The diner's identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. Only positive dining experiences will result in published reviews.