Old Vilnius Café imports taste of Lithuania to Darien

DARIEN – Although I knew nothing about Lithuanian food, my companion was thrilled when I asked him to join me for dinner at Old Vilnius Café, named after the country's capital.

Inside the door sits a gift shop full of Lithuanian wares, many celebrating the 1992 bronze-medal Lithuanian Olympic basketball team. Mugs, T-shirts and amber jewelry line the shelves. The shop opens up into a small deli offering traditional candy, Lithuanian magazines and a variety of goodies to take home.

Beyond the gift shop, the intimate dining room is a mix of cozy and elegant, with black padded leather chairs and dark wood furnishings lit softly by wall sconces.

Old Vilnius Café serves Lithuanian and Eastern European cuisine, with dishes made in-house from scratch.

During our visit, the waiter apologized when my companion ordered zeppelins, because the traditional dish of grated potato dumplings stuffed with minced meat had sold out, but he gladly offered a fried version as a substitute for the boiled.

After reading through the menu, I decided to start with an appetizer of fried Lithuanian bread served with a warm cheese and garlic sauce. The strips of crispy bread were piled into a large bowl and smothered in gooey cheese. It was delicious, but very rich. I was glad to have someone helping me dig in before our main courses arrived.

My companion sipped on warm red beet soup, borszcz, which I sampled and really enjoyed. A cold variation of the soup also is an option.

Although our waiter tried to warn us, we ordered much more food than we could finish, but the place was a meat and potato lover's paradise that proved hard to resist.

Because it was my first time eating Lithuanian food, I decided to go with something I knew a little bit about: potato pancakes. They came with a side of sour cream and bacon tidbits, as did many items on the menu. The savory dish was a delicious balance of starchy potatoes, salty bacon and cool sour cream.

My eager dining companion, much more educated about the cuisine thanks to fond childhood memories of many of the dishes, ordered a combination plate to taste a bit of everything. His plate arrived loaded with fried zeppelin, potato sausage, kugelis, Lithuanian sausage and sauerkraut. Of course, bacon and sour cream added their decadent flourish.

My favorite was the kugelis, a baked potato cross between cake and pudding. It reminded me of twice-baked potatoes, but the best I'd ever had.

In addition to a wide range of European chicken, beef and pork entrees, the menu offers several all-American options such as chicken wings, Caesar salad and a bacon cheddar Angus burger.

We ended up boxing half of our dinner to take home, but if I hadn't been so stuffed, I would have loved to try a slice of raspberry cheesecake or chocolate lava cake. Cocktails, Lithuanian beer and wine also are featured.

Old Vilnius Café combines ethnic cuisine with a welcoming atmosphere and plenty of options for Lithuanian food fans and those less familiar with the hearty dishes.

The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life Media. The diner's identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. Only positive dining experiences will result in published reviews.