Cooking outdoors is billed as lots of fun, and it surely is, but grilling, barbecuing and smoking have become serious, if delicious, ways to beat back the recession.

Americans spent $2.4 billion on grills and smokers in 2008, according to the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, an Arlington, Va.-based trade group. Weber-Stephen Products Co. of Palatine, Ill., maker of the iconic Weber grill, reported in its annual consumer survey that 24 percent of respondents planned to spend more on grilling this year. Only 11 percent predicted they would spend less. Why the willingness to part with hard-earned cash in this economy?

"People still have to eat," said Ken D'Anastasio, the go-to guy for grills at the Atlanta-based Home Depot chain. "People are spending $200 or $300 on a grill so they can have an outdoor family experience and upgrade their home life as opposed to spending more going out once or twice for dinner."

D'Anastasio won't talk numbers but notes grill sales so far this year are doing "exceptionally well."

The barbecue association estimates 85 million American households, 8 of 10, own a grill or smoker. And more than half of all grill owners are now grilling at least a couple of times a week, according to the Weber survey.

"Americans love to cook outside," said Leslie Wheeler, an association spokesman. "It isn't just about cooking burgers and hot dogs. People are cooking a huge range of things."

Grills can cost from less than a hundred bucks to thousands of dollars depending on maker, size and how many extras there are. You can buy gas grills, charcoal grills, electric grills and space-age infrared grills just like the ones steakhouses use. According to the association, gas grills remain the most popular, followed by charcoal grills and electric grills.

The debate over which type does the better job with food will likely never, ever, end. Fred Thompson, author of "Grillin' with Gas," insists most folks can't tell whether a "fast-cooked" item, and that's most things plonked on a grill, was done over charcoal or gas.

"I've tested gas and charcoal side by side," he said. "What I learned in writing my book is anything you can do on charcoal, you can do on gas."

Still, this conclusion didn't come so easily to the Raleigh, N.C., resident.

"I felt like a traitor," Thompson chuckled. "I'm a Southern boy, and it had to be charcoal and wood."

Gas grills still may be tops, but there is a growing interest in smokers, covered cookers used by many barbecuers. Weber reports smoker ownership among grill owners has grown from 12 percent to 17 percent in the last four years.

Chicagoan Gary Wiviott, author of "Low & Slow: Master the Art of Barbecue in 5 Easy Lessons," said more consumers are turning to slow-cooking, to barbecue, as a way to turn larger, cheaper cuts of meat like pork shoulder or ribs into "something smoky and delicious."

"It's not so much a new trend but a revitalizing of a very traditional way of cooking," he said. "More people are interested in low and slow cooking, not just grilling."

Judging by the comments chef Jamie Purviance is hearing on his book tour, consumers are looking for more choices in what they're cooking and eating outdoors.

"I'm getting a lot of, 'We know how to do steaks and chops and chicken breasts. How can I expand my repertoire, do something a little more special?'" said the author of the new "Weber's Way to Grill" and other Weber cookbooks.

Making dishes that "are a little impressive but not too difficult" is key. His suggestions? Vietnamese-style shrimp and pork pops, pineapple upside-down cake and piadinis, which are essentially pizzas folded over whatever filling you like. (He recommends grilled steak with arugula and Gorgonzola cheese.)

Pizza on the grill?

"Everyone is watching what you're doing," said Massachusetts caterer Lou Ekus. "It used to be four or five thick T-bones on the grill, but those are a little expensive these days. Pizza is easy to do and very fast."

Grill buying tips

Thinking of buying a grill? The Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association suggests asking yourself these questions:

■ Decide on the grill type: Charcoal, gas or electric? Determine which grill options, such as side burners, rotisseries or infrared burners you need for the foods you like to cook. Do you ace the basics or are you a gourmet griller?

■ Give a nod to style. Will the grill be the focal point of your backyard or patio, or will it just be a side fixture?

■ How much can you spend? Grills can range from less than $100 to thousands of dollars.

■ Consider the size of the grill's cooking area. Do you grill just for the family, or do you often cook for larger groups?

Online: For more buying information, check out the Web site of barbecue expert Craig Goldwyn at amazingribs.com on the Web.

By the numbers

■ 1.1 billion: Pounds of charcoal sold in food, drug and mass-merchandise stores in the U.S. over the 52-week period ending March 21

■ 983 million: Pounds of hot dogs sold in U.S. stores over that period.

■ 690 million: Pounds of ketchup sold in U.S. stores over that period

SOURCE: The Nielsen Co.