STERLING – When customers stop by a downtown Sterling bar and grill to grab a bite to eat, they can usually hear it before they see it.

It’s a steady sizzle that cuts through conversation and clinking glasses and comes from the sound of patties pressed fresh, pork chops heating up and wings crisping in a cozy kitchen.

And if that sounds good, then wait ’til you catch a whiff — and a taste — of what the Brick is cooking.

The sound and aroma catch customers’ senses quickly at Lisa’s Brick House, where the compact kitchen is a big part of a place built on familiarity, first names and the kind of warm welcome that comes naturally, whether the staff is serving dinner for one or a family meal.

For owner Lisa Escamilla, that’s just how she wants it.

“We have regulars we know on first-name basis, what they drink, what they eat, who their kids and family members are,” Escamilla said. “We live in a small, close-knit community where we usually already know of each other anyway. They’ll ask out-of-towners, ‘What are you doing in town?’ Or, ‘Are you traveling for work?’ We get a lot of blue collar-type customers who are traveling for the railroad, construction or utility work, stuff like that. We have people from out-of-state come back and see us. Someone said, ‘We wanted to come back for your wings, they were great!’”

Escamilla was born and raised in Sterling. Before she owned the place, she was a bartender there, hired in 2004 by Denny Strader, who operated Champ’s Bar and Grill in the same space. Strader also owned banquet space connected to the bar — located elsewhere on the block off East Third Street — and in January 2018, Escamilla purchased the bar space from him. (Strader continues to own the banquet business under the Champ’s name.)

As a kid, Escamilla imagined owning a business someday, even flirting with the idea of running a hotel. Instead, years of working under Strader helped her evolve from a bartender to a bar owner, instilling the value of hospitality built from the ground up. She credits Strader as a mentor who taught her everything she needed to know, she said. In addition to the Brick House, Escamilla also owns two bars in Rock Falls: Hammer Headz and Bubba’s Hideaway, both drink-only establishments a few blocks from one another on First Avenue.

When she opened the Brick House, she made the space her own, pulling down drywall to expose a brick wall, updating finishes and putting her own touch on what had already been a neighborhood fixture. For most of the past 70 years, the place had been a bar: starting with Fould’s Tavern, then the Monkey Inn, Helen’s Hideaway, and Spend-a-Buck before it became Champ’s. The bones were good; they just needed some breathing room.

“I enjoy customer service and meeting new people,” Escamilla said. “I feel like hospitality is something that I’m good at – making people feel comfortable and needed, and accommodating their needs. We do that here: greeting people, making them feel comfortable, wanting them to come back.”

Escamilla is deliberate about the people she hires and the tone they set from behind the bar. She can teach someone how to pour a drink or run food. Personality, though, is different. “I’m particular about who can work here,” she said. “It’s really about personality.”

Much of the place’s menu carries over from Champ’s days: Its signature House Burger, ribeyes, pork chops, Philly sandwiches (beef or chicken), patty melts, BLTs, jumbo fish sandwiches, grilled cheese, chicken strips and sliders. Since opening, newer additions to the menu have included fish tacos and a Reuben sandwich. For appetizers, wings come mild, hot, Asian or BBQ. Fries, tater tots, cheese curds and onion rings round out the fryer side.

Sauces are homemade: ranch, bleu cheese and the customer-favorite “boom sauce.” Nearly anything with a bun can be ordered and served without it as a “Roxanne,” named for a regular customer who would rather not have the bun. “She was probably one of the first customers to order something without a bun,” Escamilla said. “We thought it would be cool to kind of throw her name on the menu.”

Escamilla also takes pride in offering creative alternatives. Special requests are common, from an extra patty on the House Burger, to a chicken Philly on tortillas, and a pork chop sandwich tossed in buffalo sauce.

“I like that we have the capability of creating homestyle cooked food, not only with what’s on the menu, but also with a variety of flavors and items,” Escamilla said. “I like that we can create different things, and not necessarily stay within the box.”

Behind the grill, the job of wielding the spatulas is an intense one, she said. Being a one-person kitchen with a 24-by-24-inch flat top grill requires timing, prep work and consistency, and she’s proud of her cooks’ skills.

“I’ve been very fortunate where the people who have cooked here are very talented, and it can be a tough job because it’s a one-person job,” Escamilla said. “You’re in charge of prepping, cooking and time management, and making sure you’re consistent. We have talented individuals who work here, and they are skilled to where they can turn it out quickly, and have good, quality food in a timely manner.”

Creativity continues behind the bar, where the whiskey lineup hovers around 20 selections, including a few over 100 proof. Old-fashioneds, in particular, have built a following.

Saleena Surratt, the bar’s mixologist, brings years of experience from local restaurants and a willingness to nudge customers just slightly outside their comfort zone.

“I enjoy making people drinks that they may not have had, especially old-fashioneds,” Surratt said. “I never wake up and not want to come to work. I am a people person and I love my job. I make friends and family with most of my customers. I learn their first names and what they eat and drink, and I like working here because it’s a set schedule.”

Bloody Marys are made from scratch and the mix can be dialed up or down: customers have requested them spicier, milder, with varying ratios of tomato juice, built with horseradish vodka and even once made with pickle whiskey. Virgin versions are welcome, too.

“There are a lot of people who like to travel around and try a lot of different Bloody Marys at different places,” Escamilla said. “It’s kind of nice when you do it from scratch, then you can control the flavor. If you want it hot, or not hot, or if you want a virgin, or not a virgin. There’s a community of people who are Bloody Mary enthusiasts who will travel around to try Bloody Marys.”

An entertainment schedule keeps the bar lively. DJs spin on Thursdays and Saturdays bring karaoke. It also participates in local pub crawls, and hosts occasional live entertainment.

It hasn’t all been smooth, however. In October 2021, a fire in the basement forced the restaurant to close for six months. The shutdown followed closely on the heels of the coronavirus pandemic, making for a rough one-two punch.

Perseverance has paid off, though.

“The fire was very traumatic for me and my employees,” Escamilla said. “I have a close relationship with everyone who works here, so it was definitely a hardship, especially for my full-time people. This place, whether it was Champ’s or the Brick House, it’s been home away from home. I’ve always felt comfortable here. If I need to get away from the house, I can come here and sit and hang out. So it was really hard.”

Reopening brought a new perspective for Escamilla, helping her see the power of a helping hand, especially from fellow bar owners. Now, she’s willing to offer the same in return.

“Everything’s a learning lesson, and I learned how to cope with issues,” she added. “There can be several. It’s all been a learning curve, and learning how to handle the problems, and learning who to go to when I needed advice.”

Through the learning curves and curve balls, Escamilla has learned a lot, but she says the clearest affirmation of her approach to business still comes from the people who walk through the door, whether they’re pulling up a bar stool or sliding into a booth with their kids.

“I like when we get customers who come in to experience the place for themselves, and then realize that this can be a place where they can bring their kids to come and eat,” Escamilla said. “There was once a young man who has twin daughters, and the girls now love to come in and eat with him. I love that we can accommodate families and individuals alike.”

Lisa’s Brick House, 216 Locust St. in Sterling, is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday; its grill closes at 8 p.m. daily. Find it on Facebook or call 815-590-5472 for more information.