Uncorked: Beaulieu, Stags’ Leap among wineries ready to spark winter nights

Beaulieu Vineyard and Stags’ Leap Winery were instrumental in the establishment of the American wine industry.

In 1900, Georges de Latour saw the potential in Rutherford, California, and founded Beaulieu. The winery rose to new heights under legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff.

The history of Stags’ Leap Winery dates back to 1893.

Neither winery has rested on its laurels. They’ve stormed into the present with delicious cabernet sauvignon, representing the best of what California has to offer in the varietal.

“I take great pride in the opportunity to contribute to such a historic Napa Valley heritage brand with over a century of experience of exceptional winemaking,” Stags’ Leap Winery senior winemaker and General Manager Ludovic Dervin said. “It’s a responsibility that I don’t take lightly. It’s important that I strike a balance of embracing the modern capabilities of our winemaking team with maintaining the gold standards, authenticity and legacy of Stags’ Leap that our customers have loved for generations.”

Every wine lover has a moment where an indelible impression pulls them in for life. For me, it was a random visit to a wine store in downtown Geneva. A snowstorm had rolled through the night before, and the town was just waking up. The store owner recognized me, grabbed a glass, pointed to several bottles open on a table and invited me to join a small gathering of oenophiles.

One of the bottles was a 1980 Opus One, the second vintage ever of the Mondavi and Rothschild California collaboration. When it was released, I probably was crawling around an apartment somewhere in suburban Illinois. While the experience was close to 25 years ago, I remember the blinding sun reflecting off the fresh, white snow, the chill in the store and the smiles on the faces of everyone involved.

Beaulieu winemaker Trevor Durling had his moment with wine, too.

“I have always had tremendous respect for Beaulieu Vineyard and its legacy of winemakers that came before me,” Durling said. “When I was in college, I had the opportunity to taste the 1968 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. With the first sip of this extraordinary wine, which is considered one of the most collected American wines in history, I was blown away. It left an impactful impression on me and has shaped the direction of my career. I call it my ‘ah-ha’ wine moment.”

Because each vintage is different and there are constant innovations being developed in the vineyard and cellar, Durling knows at BV he has to march the winery into the future.

“Looking forward to our brand, it’s important that we hold space for both legacy and innovation,” Durling said. “The vineyards we work in today are the same vineyards that produced the fruit for the first 1936 vintage, and we’ve maintained the same BV winemaking philosophy that resulted in Napa’s first cult cabernet. At the same time, we’re constantly innovating with new technology, viticulture practices, new sustainability practices and efficiencies in operation – all of which keep our wines relevant and exciting to today’s consumer.”

In the Stags Leap District AVA, there’s a distinct terroir that has produced wines that are unmistakable. There’s a juicy freshness to the fruit that strikes its own unique chord. Dervin pointed to the district’s distinct microclimates – the heat reflected off the rocky Palisades leading to warm days and great for ripening grapes. But the marine breezes off the San Pablo Bay usher in a cooling influence that keeps the acidity and balance in the fruit fresh.

A new project with other Stags Leap District wineries is an exciting, forward-thinking kind of collaboration.

“Most recently, I had the great privilege of uniting with the winemakers from Baldacci Family Vineyards, Cliff Lede Vineyards, Chimney Rock Winery and Pine Ridge Vineyards to develop a limited-edition Stags Leap District collaboration wine,” Dervin said. “The wine, appropriately named the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Collaboration, is a reflection of the comradery and legacy of the Stags Leap District, showcasing the best expressions of our esteemed appellation. This special release wine is the result of 15 wineries in the region working together, and is the perfect example of our unique community relationships.”

The kind of wine that 20 years down the road will be someone’s ‘ah-ha’ moment.

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

TASTING NOTES

Beaulieu Vineyard, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($40): Raspberry and blackberry compote flavors with cherry, eucalyptus and dusty cocoa notes on the finish. A tremendous value for the charming collection of flavors.

Beaulieu Vineyard, Napa Valley “Tapestry” 2021 ($65): Extracted dark fruit, with baker’s chocolate, Christmas spice and anise flavors on an elegant red.

Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($35): Plum, mountain scrub, herbs de Provence with currant, dusty espresso and dark chocolate nibs.

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet 2020 ($175): Dark fruit, blackberries, mint, rosemary and sage on the nose. Super elegant dueling black and blue fruit flavors with robust tannins. A cellar worthy wine that will evolve for 20+ years.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($85): There’s black pepper, black fruit, hot coals and tobacco on the nose. A snappy mint and wet-rock mineral note coax out the best in the red fruit flavors that rise up in the profile. Another great cabernet from a legendary Napa Valley estate.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($80): From a name you can trust in Napa Valley, hard to believe the wine comes in at this price. There’s espresso, black berry and currant on the nose. The tannins frame the fruit so well, great black fruit extraction on the mid-palate with a cedar note that runs through the finish.

Dowdell Soda Canyon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($95): A distinct mouthfeel that allows black cherry, black licorice, cured meats and loamy earth to dance across your palate.

Early Mountain “Rise” 2020 ($150): Feral and fun with wild blackberry, milk chocolate shavings, cocoa, touches of pine needle, cedar and wild fennel. Another striking cabernet from Virginia, which quickly has gained my attention as a wine region to watch.

Ehlers Estate Napa Valley “Portrait” 2022 ($79): Fig, wild strawberries, dried violets and cocoa flavors. Streamlined tannins on a Bordeaux blend that has a silky mouthfeel and enduring finish. 50% cabernet, 23% cab franc, 12% merlot and 13% petite verdot.

Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($15): There’s a toasty oak note that props up the dried plum, star anise, tea and ground clove flavors.

Hahn Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($15.99): A great Tuesday night wine; pair it with pizza, pasta or a burger on the grill. There’s tobacco, cassis and juicy cherry with just enough tannin on the finish for that grilled burger.

Lifevine Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($21): Clean Label Purity Award winner with zero sugar and black cherry flavors. Serving Facts are listed on the back, a trend every winery should embrace.

Priest Ranch, “James Joshua” 2019 ($145): The nose might be the most memorable of all the wines tasted for this report. Only made in the best vintages, and the quality shows here. Blue, black fruit and creosote on the nose. There’s warm coals and the first pop of acidity when biting into a blueberry. The structured tannins carry the fruit flavors all the way through on a long finish.

“On the winemaking side, we will never over tinker,” Priest Ranch winemaker Cody Hurd said. “I talk about low-intervention winemaking. Most say they do that and then add to it.”

There’s nothing to add here – Hurd made a brilliant wine.

Rodney Strong, Alexander’s Crown, Alexander Valley Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($90): Blue fruit with dried violets, warm rocks and a persistent finish with a floral note. Pair with a garlic and rosemary smothered tri-tip.

Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($80): A dense core of plum and mint on a tannic blockbuster of a wine. Savory with a dark extraction of blackberry, black currant and vanilla.

Stags’ Leap Winery “The Leap” 2020 ($120): Currant, black fruit, menthol and mint – super dark in the glass. Enjoyed over three days. A big wine with a mineral note resting between the cedar, plum and tobacco notes.

William Hill North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($14.99): Super dark purple in the glass, black berry compote, thyme, licorice and baking rack spices.

World’s End, “Crossfire” Missouri Hopper Vineyard, Napa Valley 2017 ($150): A silky mouthfeel with well-integrated tannins and a long finish. Loved the currant, creosote, cola and Christmas spice on the nose and the corresponding flavors that mixed in with hints of dark chocolate and singed herbs.

GIFT GIVING GUIDE

The Walls Single Vineyard Series ($360:) Stanley Groovy is one of my favorite characters in wine. A label character that mixes the aura of an editor of The New Yorker with Kilroy, the charm extends deep into the Washington wines. Brought to life by New Yorker cartoonist Joe Dator, he’s a curious, always changing wine-world explorer.

Three spectacular Washington wines are included: The Walls Stanley Groovy 2021, The Walls Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard 2021 and The Walls French Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2021.

Stanley Groovy, a collection of Portuguese varietals grown on Red Mountain, is a different trip down flavor lane every year. The Champoux Vineyard has a distinct pencil shaving note year after year, and here welcomes in black berry, cedar and cigar box flavors. The French Creek and its powerful tannins beg to be paired with Christmas prime rib.

The clever white box packaging naturally features Stanley Groovy, a definition and matches. A nice touch for those who used to collect matchbooks. Just a bit different and perfect for the brand.